The Beginning

September 6

I feel amazing. Three dozen bangles jingle on my arm, a bindi lies in between my eyes, tailored pants fall gracefully on my legs and my head moves side to side in an attempt to practice the bobble I have recently come to love. I have spent about a
day and a half here in Bangalore thus far and it has been incredible. Today
especially was very special, since I have just recovered from my jet lag and was able to observe my new home without exhausted, somewhat critical eyes. Everything today I embraced.

This journey started several days ago now, when I woke in the early morning of September 3rd to drive with my father to Newark for a day of orientations and preparing for the flight ahead. Around 5pm, we left the Hilton we had spent the day at, and continued onto the airport. There were six of us students traveling on the group flight from Newark to Delhi, which as I’ve already mentioned, was supposed to take about 14 hours. As we passed through security, with my boarding pass in hand, it finally started to sink in. I am going to India. It became even more real as we approached the terminal gate…almost everyone waiting was Indian. We boarded the flight around 7:40 and it was easily the largest plane I’ve ever been on. Thankfully, there were two unoccupied seats next to mine which were gifts from God. It might have been the nicest flight I’ve taken. Except for the fact that we waited on the runway for more than two hours…there had been bad weather and all flights were delayed…but once we lifted off, I lied out with two blankets and using the travel goods I had just bought (travel pillow, eye mask, etc) fell into a deep sleep until 6am the next morning (eastern time). Due to our delay, we weren’t supposed to get into Delhi until around 12ish which was about 9pm in India. So I spent the rest of the time watching the random movies in front of my seat, eating a delicious Indian meal (we had forks and knives…so different than domestic flights in the US) and watching us fly over areas I’ll probably never visit. AKA Kabul, Afghanistan and etc. The most interesting part was flying next to a lightning storm-automatically images of us getting struck by lightning came to my mind…as I slept earlier, I dreamt of the plane enduring a horrible landing…how worrisome I can be sometimes. The plane landed quite nicely, and I left the plane a little bemused now that it was nighttime once again. Hadn’t we just left the darkness? As I stepped off the plane, the first bit of India to greet me was the steaming temperature and about twenty young Indian men peering at me. The six of us proceeded to go through customs, which took about twenty or so minutes. Then we headed to pick up are luggage, then get on a bus to take us to the domestic airport. Everything was dark but mysterious as we drove through the night…I was hypnotized by the scene around me…my first glimpses of India. When we got to the other side, we learned we would not be able to get into the actual airport terminals until two hours before our flight-which meant 4:35am. At that time, it was about 11:30pm. So, we all found a place to sit in the waiting area with the rest of the Indians, most of whom were lying out on seats. We packed our bags and before long, I got up to buy some chai (tea) and find an ATM so I could have some rupees on hand, which is the Indian currency (about $1=44 rupees). When I got back to my seat I wrote, read, listened to music, and observed the space around me. The biggest thing I noticed was that everyone had their shoes off. I have always embraced the barefoot notion and so this Indian custom greatly pleases me and I was happy to see it in action for the first time. My mom teases me for whenever I am driving with her in any car, I always take my shoes off. I’m beginning to feel like I truly was Indian in a past life. I wrote while I waited, “I know everything is telling me I should feel in a completely different world and yet I don’t. Now this maybe because I am stuck here inside the Delhi airport and can’t really go anywhere for several hours…but I feel completely at home, even here.”

After several hours of waiting, we were able to go through security and recheck our bags. We had a laugh when our friend Sam’s skateboard was taken away so it could go through security once more and when it was returned, he was asked to do some tricks by the Indians, right there in the airport. In Newark, a young Indian had thought it rather comical he was bringing a skateboard with him to Bangalore… “you’ll attract a lot of attention with that, yes, a white person on a skateboard…good luck.” After we checked our luggage, we had to wait about one more hour before we could proceed to the terminal. At that time, we went through more security and came to an area that only had four gates. This was the section for domestic flights for about 4 airlines for India. It looked like the size of the airport in Bangor, Maine. How strange…a city with one of the largest populations in the world…
Anyway, we finally got on the Bangalore flight and it took about 2.5-3 hrs. I took Jet Airways and it was fantastic. We were served a wonderful meal and the staff was very friendly. By the time we got into Bangalore, which was around 9amish, I had been up since 330pm the day before. I didn’t end up getting to sleep until about 5pm. So do the math. When I did get to sleep later in the day, I slept right through until 6am this morning.

When we arrived in the airport, we picked up our luggage and were greeted by two people from the India Center. It took about 45 minutes to get to where we are currently staying, which is the United Theological Center, our temporary accommodations until we move into our apartments later in the week. Tomorrow through Tuesday night we will actually be on a retreat and I feel kind of sad leaving the city to go to the outskirts after my wonderful experiences today. My first impressions were not as wonderful. They weren’t bad, I was just seeing Bangalore with sleepy, jet lagged eyes. Excited, but tired nonetheless. First of all, the airport (although nice) seemed to be in the complete middle of nowhere. I couldn’t believe that this was supposed to be near a city. As we drove in, the traffic felt like déjà vu (can anyone say, Egypt?) what with the incessant honking and chaos. I no longer am worried about my safety…I have truly accepted that it will appear like an accident is going to occur at any moment. I saw hints of India’s infamous poverty along the streets, stalls and vendors everywhere, as well as the beautiful saris coloring the atmosphere. As we were coming in, the idea of the “cosmopolitan” city we had heard of seemed a bit far fetched. This was nowhere near the definition that we were familiar of. The complete lack of orderliness and the ever presence of disarray was the confusing part. I think the idea of “cosmopolitan” meant clean, organized, tall buildings in our mind…but now we have new definitions of the word and a new understanding of the concept…a more Indian perspective…
When we arrived at UTC, its gardens and encompassing trees gave us a bit of relief from the world outside the gates…and we settled in to our new rooms, which have a 1940s old movie feel to them. Afterwards, we went back outside and proceeded to the India Center, where I’ll be spending a huge chunk of my time. The India Center is located on Ali Asker road, off of Cunningham, a street with many shops, stores, and entertainment. Compared to the surrounding streets, Ali Asker seems like a quiet and peaceful retreat. At the India Center, we had lunch and met many of the faculty members and staff. Towards the end, we set up a puja and made offerings to the elephant god Ganesh (for new beginnings), Lasksmi (prosperity and wealth), and one another goddess whose name has escaped me. It was an auspicious moment, where we presented flowers and basil to the pictures before us, rung bells to say to the gods “hey, listen to us!” and lighted candles. Hinduism has always fascinated me and I could not be happier surrounded by it. I have so much learning to do.
As I mentioned earlier, I fell asleep back at UTC around 5 and woke up this morning quite early. After having a complimentary breakfast, we headed to a nearby hospital/clinic/nursing home to check to if my friend Sonja had kidney stones. After finding out she was okay, the six of us exploring together caught two auto rickshaws (which I LOVE) and went to the Commercial Street area for shopping. Today I went a little crazy. I bought a salwar kameez, (what most women wear…a long tunic shirt, baggy pants, and a draped scarf) bangles (3 dozen for less than two dollars), a small statue of Ganesh (for new beginnings!), my cell phone (my number here is 9742104852), two tailored pants (for less than 14 dollars…they are amazing…baggy…I will be getting more…I only want to wear these) …I believe that’s it…but everything is so, so cheap here! I passed a store of tunics selling for 50 rupees, a little more than a dollar!! And haggling is very easy to do… “I’ll give you discount,” became a popular statement. Perhaps the best part of my day was getting to know the three girls in the cell phone store who have now become good friends: Priya, Sameena, and Kavitha (the h is silent). They couldn’t have been sweeter and we already exchanged phone numbers and emails!!! I’m so excited to hang out with them, they were wonderful! When I left and was already heading back to UTC on a rickshaw, my phone was vibrating and it was Sameena calling! We’ve invited them to our apartments next weekend…and Kavitha’s birthday is in October, so we’ll go celebrate with her. We spent at least an hour just talking with them…it was wonderful! Once again, I felt like an ignorant, uneducated American when they said they spoke five languages. “How many do you speak?” they asked. “Uh….” seemed to be my only response. I did teach them some Spanish, and when Sameena called, she enthusiastically asked, “Como estas??”


Two things I have come to love in India (not the only two things, but the two things I have loved the most thus far): the auto rickshaw and the head bobble. For those of you who don’t know, the auto rickshaw is an open vehicle, with a driver in the front carrying about three people in a backseat. There are no seatbelts (sorry family members) and no windows. There’s an overhead covering but not much else. They are EVERYWHERE and EXTREMELY cheap. On the way back from Commercial Street, we were able to get our ride for free just by shopping at a store. Or looking, rather. It feels like an amusement park ride on the rickshaw…it’s incredible. I think if I hadn’t been to Egypt or Naples, the traffic would be terrifying me. And the rickshaw especially, would seem like a death wish. But instead, I find it thrilling. I completely love it, all the risks included. My friend Annie joked yesterday “so who do you think will get in the first accident?” We thought it might be better to ask “who will be the first person to get the d word?” A little less severe, I think.
And then there is the head bobble. It has just about completed my life and colored every conversation I’ve had with a local. Us Westerners always nod our heads but I think that we should adopt the Indian custom instead. It has a lot more personality and for some reason, just feels very warm and welcoming. My goal is to perfect it for when I return to the states in December for vacation.


Today was a wonderful day. It’s a little after 7 pm, we are all kind of tired but may go out for some dinner. Tomorrow we’ll head to our retreat which will be something new and fun but I think I’ll be very happy to return to Bangalore. It’s crazy and intense and I love it. I have easily forgotten how much trash there is, the smells, how I have seen little boys defecating on the side of the road as I walked past, how a beggar came up to my friend in a rickshaw and tried to take one of her things, how I cannot drink the water and how I sanitize my hands constantly. Honestly, I’ve experienced very little cultural shock. But I was prepared. I came with knowledge and an understanding. And more than that, with the mentality that different does not mean “wrong.” I used to think that peacefulness could only be found in a quiet setting but I think I’ve found it here, amidst the chaos. Today, I love India. What an incredible beginning.